We went on a 12-day cruise around Japan during July, one of the hottest and most humid months of the year. The cruise gave us the opportunity to explore some smaller towns outside the major cities, even stopping in Busan for a day.
The heat and humidity made some days exhausting, preventing us from being out and about for long periods. Instead, we often chose to spend time indoors in air-conditioned department stores. UV umbrellas and portable fans became our best friends. We did a couple shore tours, but typically preferred navigating the cities on our own.
As discussed in my previous Japan post, eating gluten-free was and still is incredbily challenging. Most restaurants don’t list allergens on their menu and, culturally, a gluten-free diet is often still viewed as a health fad. I was admittedly less strict with eating gluten-free on this trip. In many of the smaller cities we visited, there weren’t as many GF options and we didn’t always have time to travel far. I resorted to eating at a lot of sashimi restaurants, opting to skip the soy suace, and fortunately felt fine throughout the entire trip. However, if you’re coeliac, eating at sushi restaurants isn’t always a safe option. Whilst sashimi can be perceived as gluten-free, ingredients such as vinegar used to season sushi rice may contain wheat or barley.
The cruise departed from Tokyo and our first destination was Mt. Fuji. We visited the Mt. Fuji World Heritage Centre and Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha Shrine. Whilst the shrine was beautiful, I actually recommend going to one of the many other photo spots (such as Honcho Street or Lake Kawaguchi) for better pictures if you have time.
Osaka
The next destination was Osaka, and of course we had to visit the Osaka Castle. We left the cruise terminal as early as possible and took a taxi to the castle, arriving at around 8:30am. It wasn’t busy at all, and we were able to take our time at the scenic garden below (34°41’08.8″N 135°31’29.6″E) and walk around for the corner shot above (34°41’20.8″N 135°31’31.0″E). The coordinates are courtesy of Michael from Walk Over the World, where he discusses the many other photo spots.
The Glico Sign is another well-known landmark in Osaka, located in the Dotonbori district. Most of the shops along the canal were closed during the day, but I’m sure it becomes much more alive at night. Unfortunately, the soba noodle restaurant I had hoped to visit for lunch, Genji Soba, was closed on the day we were there. Located near Dotonbori, it offers gluten-free soba and tempura.
Kuromon Market in the Namba area is a must for delicious street food. We stopped by Maguroya Kurogin Kuromon, where you pick a piece of tuna (there’s a diagram indicating the differents parts of the fish and variations in fattiness) and they make fresh sashimi in front you. There’s limited seating around the stall and it can get busy, but it’s very quick service. Whilst I’ve always preferred fresh salmon to tuna, and the tuna was quite expensive considering you can get the same quality elsewhere for less, it was still a good experience.
Another viral spot in the Kuromon Market is Maru, which makes a Hokkaido milk soft serve presented in a sweet melon (pictured below, left). You can pick the sweetness of the melon and size (e.g. quarter or half cut). The soft serve was super creamy with a light flavour, and made even more refreshing when eaten with the melon.
Taizen Osaka is a matcha shop near the Kuromon Market (pictured below, right). The strawberry matcha was delicious, creamy and not too sweet, as was the soft serve. Although, the soft serve is not stated to be gluten-free and came with a wafer.
There were a lot of shops and food spots we didn’t have time to see, including the Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street for kitchenware and OKO Fun Okonomiyaki Bar which does gluten-free gyoza and okonomiyaki. Overall, Osaka surprised me and I would love visit again one day.
Kyoto
The following destination was Kyoto, where we spent time in the Arashiyama district and city centre for the Gion Festival. We’ve been to Kyoto before, but didn’t have the opportunity to visit the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. We decided to make the trip this time and, whilst we went quite early, there was still a lot of people. I couldn’t get any good photos, but we didn’t go all the way into the forest partially due to the heat. The pictures below are of Nonmiya Jinja, a small shrine inside the forest.
Another popular photo spot is the Arabica coffee shop, around a 10-minute walk from the forest. I ordered an iced matcha latte, but it was rather underwhelming, so I decided not to share a picture just for the sake of posting one.
One of Arashiyama’s most overlooked areas is across the Togetsukyo Bridge, where the photos below were taken. From the Tongetsu Small Bridge, you can admire the boats lined up on the Katsura River and, as you stroll along the riverbank, you’re treated to one scenic view after another.
Instead of going to Arabica, I recommend visitng Musubi Sweets Factory, a 100% vegan and gluten-free cafe. Their matcha lemon soda was one of my favourite drinks from the entire trip, and their tofu cake had the perfect texture and matcha flavour (both pictured below). I also ordered a strawberry ice cream sandwich, which had the most delicious shortbread biscuit and fresh strawberry flavour.
We were lucky enough to experience the Gion Festival in Kyoto, held annually during the entire month of July. On the afternoon we arrived, it was the last day of the Yoiyama period. Yoiyama refers to the three nights of celebration before the main parade, where the streets are closed to traffic and lined with food stalls. Although it was incredibly crowded, we were able to see these beautifully illuminated lanterns up close. The next morning, we witnessed the grand float parade, known as Yamahoko Junko. It was extremely hot, and the parade had stopped for a break when passing us. All in all, it was cool to witness such a historic event that has been celebrated for centuries.
Whenever I see Japan homeware hauls, people always seem to come back with the most beautiful ceramics from Kyoto. I didn’t have much time to shop, and would’ve loved to experience and support a self-service ceramic store. One place I did prioritse was Ninshu, pictured below. I purchased two cups, in black/white and light green, for drinking tea. The Ippodo Tea Store is just along the same street, which I also recommend visiting.
Again, with our limited time in Kyoto, we only had the chance to enjoy one dinner and lunch. We tried a ramen restaurant that served gluten-free ramen and dumplings. Whilst it was a good experience, I still preferred Kyoto Engine Ramen for its overall flavor and quality. For lunch, Sushi no Musashi inside the Kyoto Station was a convenient, quick and surprisingly delicious option. It’s not stated to be gluten-free, but the salmon and tuna nigiri were fresh and satisfying after a hot morning. I really enjoyed Kyoto on my first visit, and loved it just as much the second time.
Kochi
Kochi is the capital city of the Kochi Prefecture and located on Shikoku, one of Japan’s four main islands. We decided to skip the Kochi Castle and Makino Botanical Gardens, but visited Chikurin Temple. It was extremely peaceful, with a path of steps shaded by trees and a display of summer wind chimes.
Hirome Market is an indoor market and food hall with vendors serving Kochi’s specialities. This includes seared bonito (pictured below) and imo-kenpi, candied sweet potato. No food is stated to be gluten-free and if you’re coeliac, it can be difficult to ensure the bonito is seasoned with salt only (shio-tataki) and without ponzu sauce.
This meal was one of my favourites. The light char on the bonito was so satisfying and it was super affordable as well – around $9 for a generous portion of rice and fish with a side of miso soup. The hall is packed with locals and it was quite challenging to find a seat.
Katsurahama Beach is located just south of Kochi. We walked to Watatsumi Shrine on top of Cape Ryuoh, where we were rewarded with a stunning view over the ocean.
Although we didn’t visit many of Kochi’s landmarks, the city had such a peaceful, welcoming atmosphere and an incredible variety of attractions. It felt surprisingly underrated and ended up being one of my favorite destinations from the cruise. Next time, I would love to explore the town of Ochi, where the Aso Chinkabashi (submersible bridge) is located.
Busan
Busan marked our first visit to South Korea. We went to Gamcheon Culture Village, a hillside town of colourful houses and lush green mountains in the background. It was quite busy with tourists walking through the main street. However, there were lot of cute shops selling handmade goods, including ceramics.
Jagalchi Fish Market is the largest seafood market in South Korea. Most of the stalls are run by women nicknamed the Jagalchi ajumma (ajumma is a Korean term for a middle-aged or married woman). I’ve always been drawn to pictures of markets, probably because it’s a style of street photography about capturing everyday people immersed their daily routine. There’s something incredibly satisfying about turning ordinary moments into images that feel special and full of character.
We had lunch on the second floor of the market, and were drawn in by a lovely ajumma into her restaurant. We tried a variety of seafood, but the standouts were the grilled abalone, steamed snow crab, and fried rice made with the crab. The fried rice was my favorite – the combination of fragrant sesame oil, seaweed, and sweet crab was absolutely delicious. Although allergens are not listed on the menu, sticking with the simpler dishes, such as plain sashimi and boiled/steamed seafood, is a safe, gluten-free option I believe.
We decided to skip Gukje Market, and instead spent time exploring a department store and visiting Olive Young. Busan definitely had a different vibe compared to the Japanese cities we visited, and it was a great introduction to the country.
Arita and Nagasaki
Arita is a small town in the western Saga Prefecture boardering Nagasaki. It’s known for producing Arita porcelain, and two of my favourite homeware brands – 1616 / Arita Japan and Hasami Porcelain – originated in this region. We were lucky enough to tour Kouraku Kiln (pictured below), where we learned about the porcelain-making process, before stopping by Fukagawa Seiji, a renowned porcelain manufacturer that has produced pieces for the Imperial Household.
Every piece at Kouraku Kiln is still handmade and hand-painted, just as it has been for centuries. Watching the artisans at work was fascinating, especially this craftswoman, who had such a steady hand when painting a circular ring around the bowl.
For food, we mostly ate in Nagasaki. I highly recommend the sashimi set at Sushi Kyo, but it’s not advertised to be gluten-free and was served with some fried items. For a sweet treat, Nagasaki Minami Yamate Pudding is worth a visit. We tried the plain and stained glass flavours, and both were delicious.
Kagoshima
Kagoshima was our last destination on the cruise before returning to Tokyo. By this stage, we were ready for a slower-paced day and didn’t have much planned. We skipped some of the city’s major attractions, including Sengan-en, a beautiful traditional Japanese garden, and the viewpoint overlooking Mount Sakurajima, one of Japan’s most active volcanoes.
I really wanted to mention Ikeda Senchado, a tea shop and matcha cafe (pictured below). When we visited, they asked where we were from and how we had heard about them, and it was such a lovely interaction. We tried their iced black tea and matcha latte, but the standout was definitely the gelato. The hojicha flavor was delicious, but my personal favorite was the black tea banana.
Kagoshima is Japan’s second-largest tea-producing prefecture. In the future, I would love to tour their tea farms and learn more about the harvesting processes.
Tokyo
Tokyo is a city where there never seems to be enough time. From shopping and eating to simply navigating the train stations – with what feels like a million exits, entrances, and endless crowds – it can be both exciting and overwhelming.
I wanted to start with my clothing and accessory recommendations, mainly around the Harajuku and Omotesando areas (but I’m definitely not a fashion blogger!). Some of my favorites include Common Gull Products, Rockfish Weatherwear, Cas:space, Pamm, Beams Boy, and Luv U 2 the Moon for vintage finds.
Tomigaya is one of my favourite neighbourhoods (pictured below). It’s located in Shibuya, but has a completely different and quieter vibe. The main street is lined with independent cafes and small boutiques, including Graphpaper Conservatory, The Monocole Shop, Pivione and Marumitsu Poterie.
I’ve mentioned Na Chu Ra in my previous post, but it remains one of my favourite gluten-free bakeries. It has since relocated to Tomigaya, and their basque cheesecake and pistachio choux bun were just as good as I remembered (pictured below). The crunch of the craquelin was incredible, and custard filling had the perfect texture and pistachio flavor.
There’s a viral matcha brand with a store in Tomigaya. I’m leaving it unamed, though it’s easy to find with a quick search, simply because I feel it didn’t live up to the hype. The atmosphere inside wasn’t the most pleasant either. It seemed many people were there more for the photo opportunities rather than the matcha itself.
I’m not a matcha connoisseur, and I didn’t set out to find the “best” matcha in Japan. If I’m already in an area, I love seeking out local tea shops, but I wouldn’t usually travel across the city just for a drink. For me, matcha is more than just a trend; I love tea and am fascinated by the makers and craftsmanship behind it. As mentioned previously, I’d love to visit a tea farm and see the production process firsthand.
One place I do reommend is Afuri, a popular ramen restaurant with many branches across the city. We went here on our first visit to Tokyo, and my go-to order is the yuzu shio broth with konjac noodles (pictured below). I love the light, citrus flavour of the broth. However, it’s not the safest for coeliacs as there’s likely cross-contamination with the noodles and pork/egg may be marintated in soy sauce.
Another restaurant I recommend is Tokyo Asakusa Sarashinatenko, and most of their menu is gluten-free. We tried the tuna with chive soy sauce, gluten-free soba noodles with prawn tempura and kiwifruit daifuku (all pictured below). The standouts dishes were the tuna and, suprisingly, the dessert. Though they change the fruit seasonally, the kiwifruit worked so well with the red bean and mochi.
Of course, I had to do a homeware haul. Most of these pieces are from Kappabashi Street, which I’ve discussed in my previous post. It was a lot busier with tourists compared to the first time we visited. Dengama is my favourite store for ceramics, and many shops sell high quality stainless steel pieces.
In the picture below, the items with a pink star are from Kappabashi Street. I’ve listed to store name where possible, but some I don’t remember. Pejite Aoyama is also a must visit when in Tokyo, located near Omotesando Station. The other ceramics are from Kyoto, Arita and Busan.
This post ended up being longer than expected, but I wanted to include all of the moments which made this trip so memorable. I’m looking forward to returning one day – to explore the places I missed and revisit some of my favorites. Until next time, Japan.
Leave a Reply